TANK CLEANING SET
TANK Restoration Kit
Please read all the steps of these instructions carefully before beginning work.
Make sure that all the necessary tools and materials are readily available.
Wear the appropriate protective clothing for all steps of the procedure and
protect the surrounding surfaces. (Floor, table, tank exterior, etc.)
Tank cleaning set contents
- Tank cleaner
Cleaning the tank
Because FERTAN rust converter is a water-based product, it is crucial that all silicone, grease, and oil is removed before using the product. For this purpose, please fill the
tank with tank cleaner, shake it, and let it sit for a number of hours.
Make sure that all the interior surfaces of the tank are continuously wetted.
If you are working with a two-stroke mixture, this will generally have strong
deposits and the optimal step with the Rust-remover bath is recommended.
The site to be sealed must be clean and free of oil and grease. It is recommended to roughen the area to be treated,
as this will increase strength. Cut out the necessary quantity
from the 2-K metal kit and knead it for about 2 minutes,
or until a consistent color is achieved and the material is warm. After that, apply and mold the material. Mechanical handling is possible after about 20 minutes. Full curing is achieved after 24 hours. The material can then be sanded, milled, drilled, and painted.
Rust Remover bath (option available, not included in the set)
A preparation with our rust remover bath is only necessary if the tank is
extremely corroded. This product removes rust up to the bare metal. Fill 10% of the total volume of the tank with rust remover and fill up the rest with
about 140 °F warm water. Adding warm water reduces the reaction time. The mixing ratio can also be reduced according to the level of
corrosion (the recommended mixing ratio is 1 part Rust Remover to 9 parts
temperate water). Let this mixture react for at least 12 hours. After the reaction time, completely drain the mixture and thoroughly rinse out
the tank multiple times with clear water. If there is still corrosion
left in the tank, then the drained Rust remover mixture can be reapplied
for a second cycle.
Rust removal + corrosion protection FERTAN rust converter
Close all openings. Check beforehand (using water, for example) that all openings are sealed to
prevent staining and discoloration due to leaked material. For the next step,
you can pour the supplied FERTAN rust converter into the still moist tank. Twist, turn, and shake the tank to fully wet its interior surfaces. Pay attention to the frame supports in the tank (in motorcycles, for example) and also make sure that this is wetted using strong shakes. As soon as the interior surfaces of the tank are completely wetted with the
rust converter, the surplus liquid can be drained into a collecting vessel. The collected material cannot be used again and must be disposed of. (Please observe the note on disposal in the SDB.) Now allow the product to
react for at least 24 hours at min 60° F! After this reaction time, thoroughly rinse the tank with water until no particles
can be seen in the rinse water. If necessary, check the rinse water for
residue with a white coffee filter. Complete rust removal can be achieved
through this process without removing the uncompromised metals. (Uncompromised metals are also removed in the case of mechanical
rust removal.) EVEN WHEN USING FERTAN rust removal bath, a second process with the FERTAN rust converter is still necessary.
Coat the interior surfaces of the tank with 2-K tank coating
In the following work, the tank is sealed with the fuel-resistant 2-K epoxy coating.
Preparation of the coating
Open component 1 and stir the resin into a tough but homogeneous mass. Now open up the can component 2 and fully empty the contents into the component 1 container. Then mix both
products until they form a low-viscosity, lump-free fluid. (A battery-powered
screwdriver or drill with a corresponding stirring attachment is very helpful
for this and may also be necessary. Component 1 settles
to the bottom only a few weeks after production. Both components can be mixed in the original can (component 1).
In the first step, all remaining openings must be sealed. The fuel-resistant 2-K coating is then introduced into the dry, rust-free tank.
If you are using the original tank lid as a seal, then underlay
this with a stable plastic foil to prevent the tank ventilation from
becoming contaminated or obstructed. TIP: Universal tank lids are available
at accessory stores.
Carefully coat all interior surfaces of the tank by turning, twisting, and shaking the product inside. After that, carefully remove the tank lid (seal) and the outlet (fuel tap) and let the surplus product flow out of the drain and into the original can. Immediately remove any splashes on the exterior
surface with nitro thinner or universal thinner and do not allow them to dry.
Coating follow-up treatment
The coating is done with a 2-K epoxy resin. A lot of oxygen is necessary for this to ensure complete and correct curing.
Because there is not enough oxygen in the tank, it must be ventilated
directly after application. Please check to make sure that the proposed
ventilation is sufficient before introducing the coating. The coating should be ventilated for about 300 minutes. After that, you can remove the ventilation from the tank and allow the coating to fully cure (72 h). Please do not change the position of the tank during the first hours of curing.
For very high temperatures or very high humidity levels, increase the air
exchange by about 50%.
CAUTION! Do not use electric devices (e.g. hot-air blowers) for the air supply, because the outflowing solution may form an explosive mixture. No open fire! No smoking! Ensure good ventilation
at the workplace. (For example, please use a compressor with a
corresponding pressure regulator)
Corrosion in and on the tank
It is unfortunate that the fuel tanks of older vehicles not only have corrosion
in the tank but that fuel evaporation is also caused by the tank rusting through.
The coating is 100% fuel resistant. However, due to its low viscosity, no cracks or holes can be sealed with it. That is
why the product 2-K metal kit should be used for sealing BEFORE coating, in order to prevent later fuel leakages.
The above picture shows an inadequately applied coating with the tank sealer. In this case, there was either not any air, or not enough air, supplied after
application, which is absolutely necessary. It can clearly be seen that, due to a lack of oxygen, solvents have leaked out of the still-soft coating and
have accumulated onit. If the accumulated solvent drops are too heavy,
they will run down the interior side of the tank and destroy the coating on these spots. These rivulets correspond to the cracks, as can be seen in the picture.
At the same time, the lack of oxygen in the tank also does not allow the coating to become completely cured. This can lead to discoloration of the fuel and a blockage of the carburetor, the injection system, the fuel filter, etc.
Insufficiently mixed coating
Here is a picture of damage from insufficiently mixed 2-part coating.
It is easy to recognize that insufficiently mixed coating was used due to the
dark red spots, which could not correctly adhere to various spots
or fully cured because of the missing solvents.
Complete curing cannot take place even by reworking,
because the curing solvent has already completely disappeared.
If the tank is coated with the trank sealer, then you can check whether if
it was completely cured using the following process.
Pour about 5 oz of fuel or thinner into the tank and then twist and turn it. After about 10 minutes, you can drain the fluid. If a red coloration of the
fluid is produced, then it is not yet completely cured. If the fluid is clear,
then it is completely cured.
In order to prevent application errors, please pay close attention to the processing instructions and only proceed according to them. If you have any questions, please contact our technical customer service.